To scramble is to cook beaten eggs by stirring them continuously over gentle heat, scraping the setting egg from the base of the pan until the whole mass reaches the desired consistency. The constant movement creates small, soft curds rather than a flat omelette, and the skill lies in the heat: too fierce and the eggs turn rubbery and weep, too timid and they never set. Butter in the pan, seasoning at the end, and removing the eggs just before they look done, since residual heat finishes them, are the professional habits. Cream, cheese, herbs, or smoked salmon may be folded through. Good scrambled eggs are creamy, barely set, and glossy: the simplest egg dish and one of the easiest to get wrong.