A schnitzel is a thin, flat escalope of veal or pork, dipped in flour, beaten egg, and breadcrumbs, and fried until crisp and golden. The Wiener Schnitzel, made from veal, is Austria’s national dish, protected by tradition if not by law, and served with lemon, parsley potatoes, and lingonberry. Pork is the everyday substitute, equally delicious if less prestigious. The keys are pounding the meat evenly thin, keeping one hand dry and one wet during breading, and frying in plenty of hot fat so the crumb sets crisp rather than soggy. The coating should puff slightly away from the meat, a sign of correct technique. It is comfort food elevated to an art.